Tuesday, September 26, 2017

Wyoming Road Trip Day 7: Rawlins-Rifle-Grand Junction

August 22nd


(c) Google




Pictured: Things. What are these things? Snow drift catchers? They are everywhere in cow country and aren’t fences as they have multiple gaps and overlaps.

We drove briskly into Rawlins, where we’d been before, of course, and parked by the Walmart. It was quickly obvious that we were almost at the City Market where we’d previously spent the night. Rawlins is a small, unprepossessing town, but is remarkable friendly and welcoming. We had breakfast at Penny’s Diner, which looks exactly like a diner but appears to be part of a hotel and was a little bit chain-dinery. We filled up, as we’d learned to do at every possible juncture, but I decided that we need to move on to the Sinclair gas station nearby, because Sinclair gas stations have a plastic brontosaurus figurine outside and sell stuffed replicas inside. (I’ve always wondered why Americans believe that petroleum is made from dead dinosaurs and this made me think Sinclair Oil might be the answer.)

STB used the time to call his mum – it had been her birthday yesterday. The tail end of the eclipse had been visible in the UK but not, in turns out, in Wales, where it was cloudy. 

Rawlins

Downtown Rawlins


Wyoming

Pic: Really a lot of Wyoming looks like this. Like *a lot*. 

Continental Divide again
Pic: Continental Divide again. How do they know?

Things in the distance
Pic: Cylindrical things.
What are these things? They’re all over Wyoming. I’m guessing they are fracking stations?

Then down the 13/789, back towards Muddy Creek and the inescapable Continental Divide, towards Baggs, which is on the border of Wyoming and Colorado. On the Little Snake River. We filled up in Baggs at Rocky’s Quik stop while our driver (STB) had a kip in the back. Then down the 13/789 to Craig.
View over Rocky's roof


















Rawlins Daily Sentinel Front Page

Entering Colorado from Wyoming. Could that be a hill?




Near Craig are the Fortification Rocks, which are a volcanic outcrop that look like um…fortifications. The sign says they were used by Native Americans as fortifications, which makes some sense but if I were attacking whoever, I’d just ride around the end, which doesn’t have a ditch or punji sticks or anything, so I’m not sure the rocks are much use as a fort. 


Fortification Rocks

The pull-out for Fortification Rocks is at right-angles to the rocks, so it's not the rampartiest view. But that's where they put it!

Butterfly at Fortification Rocks

Fortification Rocks peter out on the other side of the road


Craig

Downtown Craig. I couldn’t get a very Craigy shot of Craig, so this anodyne one will have to do.















Craig power station
Craig Station is a gigantic coal-fired generating station, which I understand is slated to be decommissioned shortly. There seemed to be a certain amount of fossil-fuel defensiveness in Wyoming and Colorado. One great big industrial thing (who knows what it was) had a giant vinyl banner of the three-storey Comic-Con size that read (if I recall correctly and I probably don’t) “Fighting the regulations that prevent us providing jobs”, which I mentally translated as “Fighting the regulations that prevent us from poisoning and injuring our workers.” To be fair both Colorado and Wyoming are HUGE. A nodding donkey oil well surrounded by 25 square miles of nothing at all except sage, pronghorn and a couple of bullocks, or a coal-fired power station as big as Craig’s in the middle of rolling hills both seem very different from the same thing if it were in Orange County, CA, where the power station would be visible to (and polluting) two million people and the oil pump would be inconveniencing about ten different road builders. 

Rain, seen looking towards Meeker


Staying on the same road, we went through Axial to Meeker, where we stopped to fill ourselves up at the Watt’s Ranch Market. 



Pic: Newspapers for sale at Watt’s Ranch Market. Rio Blanco Herald Times and the Daily Sentinel.

(c) Google


Mesa near Rifle

At Rifle we changed to the I-70, heading for Grand Junction. We passed through a Colorado River Gorge of medium magnificence. 

Gorge at Palisade, Co.
Gorge

Gorge at Palisade

We arrived in Grand Junction at about six thirty pm. It was spitting with rain when we parked up at the Walmart on North Avenue and sat in the RV while we tried to figure out a place to eat. We settled on a place called Namaste, and drove off. On the way, I realized I’d left the top vent of the RV open and the rain was getting heavier. I mentioned this two or three times, and STB muttered something about how we should not be driving with it open, and I was puzzled by that. Second time I mentioned it he said we were almost there, and the third time, he stopped and said, “Close it then.”

At that point I remembered that we hadn’t left the sleeping area back at the Walmart; it was part of the truck and came with us. I’d had such a powerful feeling that the two functions were separate that I’d forgotten that. I didn’t mention this to him; I just hopped out, closed the vent and got back in.

The Indian and Nepalese food at the Namaste was very tasty and the owners seemed like great people. Like many places that are unsure of Anglo tastes, they offered us a range of spiciness from 1-10. I had a 7. He had a 10. We were both happy but I think he could have done with something a bit spicier. The portion was so huge that I took some back with me and put it in the RV’s fridge, neatly avoiding the rain of Diet Coke cans as they tumbled out.

I fancied having more amenities than in a parking lot, so we drove on to Moondance RV on the lyrically named 23 Road. Along the way we found out why it was called Grand Junction – all the railroads arrive here to have a big meeting, and large numbers of sleeping locomotives lie around their yards like big cats in a zoo. It’s exactly as industrial as it sounds, but much quieter than you’d think. Not one of them moved. The RV park itself was less industrial, but given its surroundings I did kind of expect Steve Buscemi and Ray Winstone to hop out of a nearby Big Bouncing Bastard RV and set up a meth deal involving comedy Colombians and London thugs.

In fact nothing of the kind occurred – we emptied our grey water and black water, filled up our clean water, plugged into our 30 amp supply and slept the sleep of the very tired.

In the morning, we found a giant bullfrog enjoying the drip from the water supply. Seeing us it hopped, as beasts do, directly under our wheels so we spent a comical ten minutes trying to push a recalcitrant frog out from under the vehicle. We got it and set it free at least two yards from the nearest RV. Hope it enjoys it.

Day 11 Phoenix to OC


Wyoming Road Trip Day 6: Eclipse, Casper - Rawlins


August 21st - Eclipse Day

(Day 5 Rawlins to Riverton, WY.)

(c) Google

Walmart Supercenters are supposed to be 24 hour affairs, but I guess Riverton's didn’t get the memo. It opened around 7 am and I wandered in to get a Subway coffee, which took a little over an hour as they hadn’t really staffed for the occasion and there were two (2) people in front of me. The person nearest me was incandescent with rage over the slowness of the procedure. I mentioned I only wanted a coffee, ha ha and she snapped, “Some of us have to eat!” which I thought was a bit rich given that she was in a Walmart which probably housed five thousand pounds of food and she was unlikely to starve. The guy slowly making her sandwich asked me what I wanted. (As they do, to keep a production line running.) I ordered only a coffee as promised, which the guy slowly prepared for me before he finished her sandwich. Cue apoplexy on the lady in front of me. She left before he’d finished preparing her sandwich, so I guess she didn’t need to eat that badly.

By the time I got back to the RV and the row of tents, STB was squinting through his monocular and bemoaning the light haze that was over Riverton. There were a few clouds, and just a little dust, but it wasn’t good enough so we left our (not very hard won) place at the Walmart and set off down the 26/20 towards Casper, a road that pretty much followed the path of totality.

Raspberry DeLight farms







Beside the main road was a sort of lane, asphalted and well-kept. If this had been a city we’d have called it a bike lane, but I have no idea what its purpose is in the countryside. We stopped outside Raspberry deLight Farms on the lane that paralleled the road and set up our little observation post. We set out two folding chairs, two monoculars, snackerels, snackeroonies, choccies, sandwiches, those Indian treats made out of sev, Cheesy Wotsits, this morning’s Subway coffee, horrible bottled “iced” coffee, Diet Coke, Eclipse glasses, sunglasses, glasses and sunscreen.

We were almost on the road to the farm, last in a line of several other vehicles that were parked on the ‘lane’ going up the road towards Riverton. Across the farm road, on the continuation of the lane, a German family in an RV were also setting up. We saw a lot of Germans on this trip. Who knew Wyoming was so famous in Germany?

A dog ran past.

The owner ran past. “He went that way,” I said pointing into the farmland.

“I wish one of you had fucking stopped him instead of sitting there,” he said, then turned back and went to his vehicle.

A few minutes later, someone else came past. “Have you seen a dog?”

“Yes, he went into the farmland.”

“I thought so. I’m trying to find him before it gets dark. Poor thing. And the owner’s upset.”

“He is. I think he blamed us. It was going pretty fast, though.”

“He went down the whole line of people and blamed everybody. It’s his dog. I have mine tied up. He should have tied his up.”

At that moment a car came out of the farm with a dog panting out of its window, stopped and disgorged the dog on to the lane, right next to his fretting owner. Everyone cheered, except the owner, who seemed to be in a bit of a mood.

view from the road near Raspberry DeLight farms


view from the road near Raspberry DeLight farms


It turns out it’s not possible to photograph an eclipse with a cellphone camera, and since I’d forgotten to learn how to use the DSLR (and it refused to take such an oddly lit picture on auto), I don’t have any good pictures of the eclipse. But that’s not a problem as hundreds of professionals took great pictures and I had enjoyed the opportunity to look at it rather than fiddle with cameras. 

Early in the eclipse




Cellphones are not really optimized for eclipses




















The beginning of the eclipse took an hour or more. During this time, through a filter, you can see the sun beginning to undertake the moon, so a crescent is sliced out of its yellow glow. The dark crescent grows larger over time. For most of this time, this makes little difference on the ground. It may be a little cooler; but that may be your imagination. The light of the sky seems a little dimmer, maybe more blue, but again that could be your imagination. It’s quite easy to see how pre-scientific communities missed the earlier signs and would become horribly aware just as the sky goes dark blue, the stars begin to shine, the birds shut up in confusion and it becomes noticeably cold. Then, pretty quickly, the sun disappears. It’s exactly as if someone had bought a stick-on black dot from the aforementioned dollar store and stuck it over the sun. It’s gone, apart from the few lights, Baily’s Beads, showing through the valleys on the moon, a last diamond-ring flash, and then you can only see the corona, a blazing halo around the total blackness. That only lasts a couple of minutes, and then there’s another diamond-ring flash and the sun begins to haul itself from behind the moon. One thing the websites telling you what to expect don’t seem to mention is that as the sun disappears, everybody cheers as though it had scored a touchdown. The whole process is so eerie and unreal that I’m guessing a cheer hasn’t been the normal reaction to a total eclipse through the millennia.

In the event, I was so caught up watching the sun disappear through the solar filters that I watched the pitch black nothing for a good few seconds until STB nudged me to look at it with bare eyes. It was spectacular.

As the various websites had promised, my very first thought afterwards was to go book a trip to catch the next total solar eclipse, which will be April 8th, 2024.

Vehicles around us for the eclipse

Sand Creek Massacre Trail

Everyone and their dogs packed up, and so did we, and headed off down the road, not back to Riverton, but onwards to Casper on the 20/26. This road is also designated as the Sand Creek Massacre Trail, another delightful name from history, marking the murder of Cheyenne and Arapaho civilians by the US Volunteer Cavalry. We passed another trail marker, that for the Bridger Road/Waltman Crossing. The same rest stop explained the importance of sage. And boy had we seen a lot of sage, so it’s nice that someone explained it to us.

Bridger Crossing


Importance of Sage


Pathfinder Ranch
Devil's Gate
Pic: Devil’s Gate. The gate is the gap in the mountain visible directly in front of the road. It’s a gorge of the Sweetwater River that, like Split Rock, formed a landmark for the Oregon and Mormon Trails.


We ate in Casper, at Chopstix Asian Bistro, which despite an unpromising modern name offered a very nice mostly-authentic Chinese cuisine. I might have naively assumed that away from the city a Chinese restaurant would be a festival of maraschino cherries, pineapple, sugar and pupu platters, but this was really good. Far above the California median “Asian” restaurant, anyway.

Casper itself I found a little underwhelming, with its dead-flat surroundings of gas storage facilities and extraction machine rentals for petroleum, gas and goodness knows what, all in gigantic sheds. 

And its road names like Poison Spider Road.

My phone was of no use for this part of the journey, as even the GPS had given up. I know that we took the 220/287 through Alcova and Muddy Gap (putting us back near Sweetwater again). We crossed the Continental Divide for around the fifth time on this leg of the journey. We got caught in our first traffic jam as the 287 from the Riverton side joined our road. At first we turned back, then thought about it a bit, got on the road and got through the jam in half an hour or so. Only a couple of miles (and one more Continental Divide crossing) later, we hit another jam. This time we decided the road was gridlocked all the way from Bairol to Rawlins.

This was exactly why we’d brought an RV. We pulled off the road into an asphalted field access…not road, exactly as the gate had been wired shut, but a 30-yard piece of metaled surface. (The terms and conditions of our RV rental rendered grass driving streng verboten, presumably even with the rear differential lock thingy engaged.) One lady was already parked up in her RV at the top and we chatted a while. Seeing us both there, a number of other cars and RVs pulled off into the area and went about the business of settling in. The police arrived shortly afterwards, but it seemed to be because we marked the tail end of the traffic jam and they wanted to stay somewhere with their lights flashing to slow down oncoming traffic, rather than any major need to move us on…anyway, where would we go? The police moved away as the tail of the traffic moved away.

Eventually, it got dark and STB called me outside to look at the Milky Way. With no lights for literally hundreds of miles around, it was glowing like something out of a movie. It almost looks alive.

I got up early enough at 6:30 but all our Companions of the Road had already departed. The traffic jam was gone.




Wyoming Road Trip Day 5: Rawlins-Split Rock-Riverton


August 20th
(Day 4 Pueblo to Rawlins, WY.)


(c) Google


We woke up at City Market, Rawlins, in our little camper van. We’d nearly reached our destination, and we were a day early. We went to the MacDonald’s for breakfast, and this time I learned how to actually connect to to the wifi. You have to agree to their terms on the website; it doesn’t automatically connect your phone. Aha! This was useful as phone service is pretty spotty in some of these areas. GPS mostly works, but at times even that gave up. My location history is filled with crazy zig-zags, as the phone nails down some spots and the time I was present there, and then draws straight lines between them. Sometimes mobile data was non-existent and sometimes I was passed over to a local carrier, one that STB hasn’t browbeaten into submission, and might therefore be subject to charges. Phone charges are something that send me through the roof, so I was anxious to avoid this. I don’t know why this is the case but it is; it’s possible my mother was frightened by a wild phone bill when she was pregnant with me.

We got back on the road towards Riverton, Wy.

Slowly, road signs made me aware that we were on some sort of ancestral trail, possibly involving Mormons and Donner Parties. For example, we came across Split Rock, which was described as a beacon, if a stone can be a beacon, to travelers heading west.
Split Rock, seen from an unimpressive angle
Pic: Split Rock, taken from entirely the wrong angle so it doesn’t adequately show how it was visible from great distances. 


Officially sanctioned angle to image Split Rock

Looking it up, it appeared we were on the Oregon Trail, and let me tell you it sounds to be an easier trek in an RV in August 2017 than it does with mules in 1860. We are apparently in Sweetwater Valley (an exception to the trend of calling places Gangrene Gulch and the like), which has three markers, Independence Rock, Devil’s Gate and Split Rock. Wait, Split Rock is a highly visible notch in the Rattlesnake Range, so we haven’t abandoned normal place names entirely.


Ice Slough


Also in traily news, we came across the Ice Slough, where settlers found they could mine ice until August, though the sign said whatever strange characteristic had led to its insulating properties had been lost and it was mostly ice-free in summer these days. Here we saw our first pronghorns and if you strain your eyes you can see them in the photograph too.
These roadside signs helped me understand there was some history here. 

There are pronghorns in this photo of the Ice Slough. 

Also stopped at this historic marker were a young couple who had run out of gas the previous day and had had to wait for four hours for the AAA to arrive. I checked my phone – no service. If we ran out of gas here, there’s a chance we couldn’t even call AAA. How did the Mormons manage without Triple-A? It’s a mystery lost to the wagon ruts of time.

It was a three hour drive from there to Riverton, Wy., in the path of totality. We parked at Walmart at 10:12 in the morning and went to Wendy’s for wifi and a very nice burger. Back at the Walmart we scoped out the territory. RVs were beginning to arrive and take up positions in our part of the parking lot, but it was nowhere near crowded. We went for a walk and realized that there was no-one at the back (possibly due to the black clouds of mosquitos in the strip of wetland there) and only a couple of other vehicles on the other side of the Walmart – the side facing the morning sun. We changed positions to the quiet side. We already had plenty of food from the City Market and STB produced from somewhere several packets of Indian snacks. (Not American Indian, Indian-American; we’d gassed-up at a few Sikh-run gas stations so I guess he’d explored the racks there.) In the Walmart we bought mosquito repellent and a folding chair inside the store. (STB, naturally, already had a folding chair from his apartment.)
RVs at Riverton Walmart


26-27 RVs begin to arrive at Riverton. You can see this isn’t exactly going to be packed.















In fact, now’s a good time to mention that I might never get over the wonder of a Walmart’s interior. When I first came to the States, some thirty years ago, the supermarkets were like Aladdin’s Cave to me. I’d never seen such wonders piled so high. And I’d been living in London. My wide eyes narrowed over the years, to the extent that if I couldn’t find at least five different kinds of mayo on a supermarket shelf I’d be perversely miffed, or if one of the hundreds of shiny apples had a tiny bruise I’d give a sniff of disdain. But for various reasons, I’d never been to a Walmart. (STB says I did once, but I don’t believe him.) The utter joy and amazement I first had when I encountered a dollar store – a million things! Each for a dollar! – and the hours of delighted aisle-wandering I’d done scoping out Big Lots’ vast piles of random stuff the first time I encountered one were as nothing to these, my first few trips into a Walmart. Similar t shirts to my Target $6 ones were $3, and similar price differentials were to be seen throughout a store that sold everything, from babies’ bibs to ammo and from big TVs through tents and bicycles to lip balm. Yes, I know how they do it – by underpaying the help at home and abroad – and I won’t be going there again unless I have an RV to stock, but they really are quite fantastic. 

Fully stocked, and fed at the Subway (sandwiches not transport) that also lurked inside the Walmart, we went back to our parking spot to find it was filling up. Several people had brought RVs, which makes sense since that’s the Walmart thing, but several others were in cars with tents. An enormous number of people piled out of the car beside our vehicle and struck a tent, or does that mean taking one down, I forget. It hasn’t changed since I was forced to do it as a kid, with guy wires and tent pegs and hollow metal poles that have to be fitted inside each other in a precise order in the dark while being bitten by mosquitoes. Having put up the tent, they sat down to relax in their folding chairs and the sprinklers started up.

For we had all forgotten that this wasn’t a campground. It was an eight-foot wide strip of grass with trees on it belonging to Walmart and merely there to provide a barrier between the road and the parking lot. It hadn’t really been designed for tents. People ran around putting tarps and upturned buckets over sprinklers to protect their tents and the sprinklers fought back by staying on for a solid hour. In So Cal they don’t do that, but I guess Riverton has water…in fact it’s in the name. Apparently Riverton was settled by Whites because it had so many rivers it was a major source of beavers. (I’m guessing for felt for cowboy hats. Not because they’re little cuties.) At least, that’s what the guy in the next door RV told me and he looked like he’d know that sort of thing. It’s certainly a very big Anglo town in what is otherwise a very brown Indian Reservation. (It’s Wind River, home to Eastern Shoshone and Northern Arapahoe.)

After everybody had dried off, and in some cases told their stories (most stories seemed to involve them living in Orange County, CA at some time in the past, even the lady who was originally from Korea), we went to bed. Although the setting up had been more like an eighties Stonehenge festival (or an early Glastonbury) than anything I’ve ever experienced since, this didn’t carry over into the night. Absolutely nobody played loud music, suddenly revealed they were Burning Man aficionados, formed a drum circle or even sat around a fire smoking vast clouds of dope. (Perhaps because we were in a Walmart parking lot, come to think of it.)

I woke up around six in the morning with flickering red and blue lights beaming through the tiny window. I tried to look around and could only make out a few cars with emergency lights, but as I watched more police cars appeared, followed by a fire truck and some more official-looking emergency vehicles and a tow truck. I tried to make STB wake up and look out of his window, which was on the business side. “No, let’s not draw attention to ourselves,” he said. After a few minutes it sounded like everybody on the grass was up but no busts were in progress. I looked out and people were piling something up on the grass. All I could think of (it was after all six thirty in the morning) was somebody must be building a mobile command post. But later it became clear. The next-door neighbor but one had set up on the grass but left their vehicle on the road rather than in the parking lot. Someone had driven along the road in the night, ran into it and wrecked it. Despite the truck being totaled, the crash hadn’t woken anybody up – everyone I spoke to was mystified by the incident. The pile was the contents of the truck, which had been towed. The erstwhile drivers of the vehicle were on their phones arranging loaners.

And that’s how the Total Eclipse day dawned.



Wyoming Road Trip Day 4: Pueblo-Cheyenne-Rawlins, WY



August19th.

(c) Google

Pueblo, which means village, sounds as though it might be a village, but in fact it’s amazingly cosmopolitan. I’m sure it’s overshadowed by its near neighbor (considering US distances anyway, it’s a near neighbor) Colorado Springs, but it had every hipster convenience, including a trendy coffee shop, which we set off for at about 7 in the morning. On the way, we found that cornering in the RV was much more difficult than it had been yesterday and was accompanied by the sort of noise that makes mechanics purse their lips, shake their heads and mentally imagine incoming cash flying in on doves' wings. We checked the tires and tire pressure and everything was fine. A cloud of flies gathered to watch; we soon found this was a thing in Pueblo.
 
man pulling sprinkler out of ground

At Solar Roast Coffee we plugged in our phones and started, rather wearily, to check if this was a fault we could deal with ourselves or whether we’d have to phone in and wait for the cheery man from the company to come deal with it, which, since Pueblo may be a big city in attitude, it’s still hundreds of miles from Denver, could have been a long wait. Even an eclipse-missing wait. I can’t remember how I found it, but after sufficient coffee and google, I said, “Do you have the locking rear differential on? It’s supposed to be off, or it makes a funny noise.” After some googling, STB said, “Is that the icon that looks like you're supposed to use a sprinkler puller to pull a broken sprinkler out of the ground?” It turned out it was indeed that icon, and it was “on”, for no adequately explained reason. Perhaps a stray knee had hit it. After finishing the coffee and batting away the remaining flies, we switched the locking rear differential off and all was back to nominal. We hit the road.


Castle Rock




The battlement-shaped butte of Castle Rock appeared beside the road. This, once home to the Arapaho and the Cheyenne, was an early Anglo settlement (1874) as it was the subject of a gold rush rumor. When people started prospecting, gold was  in short supply but it was found to be an area rich in rhyolite. I have no idea what rhyolite is, so I’d make a lousy early settler of the west. It was here we started noticing that most places in rural America don’t have the most heartwarming names. We passed Hangman’s Gulch and over the next few days narrowly avoided plenty of Dead Man’s Creeks and Weallstarvedtodeath Mountains.

Our sole experience of the lovely Denver, Co. was an hour spent at the MacDonald’s in Lincoln Park. (Don’t nobody ever tell you we’re not highbrow.) This gave us a chance for a kip (British for a nap) and of course a goodly supply of coffee. (And gas from the station next door.) I've been to Denver airport many times before (see blogs passim) and Denver, Boulder and Aurora a few times. It's a lovely modern city but if I never went to the airport or saw its Devil Horse again, I'd be perfectly happy.

Cheyenne
It was a couple of hours from there to Cheyenne, Wyoming. I’d wanted to go to Cheyenne because of a childhood spent watching Cowboy serials on the telly. I couldn’t have picked Cheyenne out in an identity parade (and could have easily confused it with Bayonne) but I insisted on going through there. Cheyenne is at 6,000 feet (1830 meters). This isn’t much higher than Denver (one mile, famously, or 5,690 feet) or for that matter Colorado Springs (6,000 feet) and slightly lower than Taos (6,969 feet) and Santa Fe (7,199). But the altitude was beginning to have a noticeable effect on me. I live about 100 feet above sea level, next to the Pacific. At 6,000 feet the sky is different, the light is brighter and more pure and it sure is difficult to breathe enough to get moving fast. I’m not claiming I was dying of altitude sickness, but there was a definite drag in my step.

Cheyenne seemed a happening place, as busy as all get out and although to my coastal elite sensibilities it is the epitome of one of those cities in the middle of the country that by rights ought to feel left out of the main current of things, it didn’t seem to feel that way itself. It was bustling, and warm and open. It was lunchtime, so we went for a slap-up steak meal at Wyoming’s Rib and Chop House, Lincolnway, Cheyenne. This turned out to be a great idea. I had a giant steak that the menu called a Buffalo Steak. After I’d polished most of it off, STB asked for a bite of my ‘buffalo’ steak. I insisted was just the trade name for a very large cow steak, but I’m told it really was a buffalo, i.e. bison steak. It was tender and perhaps a little unusual but nothing screamed ‘not cow’ about it, as would, say, an alligator steak or an ostrich steak. Given the enormous amount of land in Wyoming, none of which had bison on it as far as we could detect, it might be an idea to grow some more of them. (Yes, I did give STB a bit to try.)

Cheyenne - high altitude light contrasts

Next stop was the Cheyenne Depot Museum, which told the story of the Union Pacific Railroad. Once again, having grown up on Westerns, with their tales of train robberies, train-associated card sharks and those clever nozzles beside the tracks that get the water into the steam engines without them stopping, it was quite amazing to see that the railroad actually existed (still does; we saw plenty of freight traffic on it) and that some of the tales were true. There’s even one of those gigantic weighing scales that people piled freight on before boarding the train; you find out what it is as you’re standing on it. A lot of it was, frankly, the stuff trainspotters go to spot – the history of the giant locomotives, their numbers, how to recognize the type by the number of wheels, the various types of snowblowers (because as warm as it was that day, it gets down to arctic conditions at that elevation in the winter), the exact details of the repair sheds, Brian Somebody’s rail hat he donated to the museum and so on. But a lot of it was fascinating western history – the difference between Hobo, Tramp and Bum, the lives of the men who built the railroad (and then rebuilt it a few weeks later when it was discovered to be a bit wrong), the menu cards for Olde Tyme First Class travel during major holidays. (Although I’ve forgotten most of the menu, I specifically remember the Tongue Tart. It struck me as a very First Class thing to be faced with on your plate while trapped on a moving vehicle with no easy means of escape.)

The placards on the exhibits were fascinating. Each part of each description was informative and made sense but they were arranged in what I must suppose is aesthetic order.  Many were in the wrong place, or aligned with the wrong picture, or were just odd, as though Bill Burroughs had been through them with cut-ups in mind.

Cheyenne rail museum entrance
Cheyenne
We also found a rock. Not knowing whether it was supposed to be moved on in some arcane geocaching way, we left it there. If it's your rock, Robert #719, this is where it got to. 

Robert's #719, flower bed, Cheyenne

Then we spent a more prosaic hour at Batteries Plus Bulbs, attempting to buy enough stored power to run the CPAP machine and other devices in the RV. It was an interesting place in itself – the more experienced floor walkers each had full-hand scars suggesting over-familiarity with refilling batteries with acid.

From Cheyenne we went through Laramie, also exceedingly famous to people weaned on cowboy serials. There was a lot less of town in it than I thought there would be. I suppose I shouldn't be surprised – it was mainly ranches in the TV serials – but after a lifetime watching a medium where two of the terms of art are literally ‘cut to the chase’, and ‘meanwhile, back at the ranch’, you’re conditioned to expect things with 1000 acres around each of them to be in some non-spacial sense close to each other. This turns out not to be the case.

Laramie, possibly

Wyoming, of course, is where we wanted to be for the eclipse. We already were almost in the path of totality. 

We drove rapidly northwest for about 3,000 hours to get to Rawlins, WY. The Walmart for some reason had “no overnight parking” signs up, so we went to the City Market where the nice manager said we could stay as long as we kept out of the way. Dazzled by the produce of a full supermarket after days on the road, we bought quite a few things to eat that we probably didn’t need. Ribs, empanadas, salads, loaf of bread, various items from the deli case… We parked up and then crossed increasingly darkening rattlesnake-filled gulches for at least 200 yards to get to the MacDonald’s so we could use their wifi. It was closed, but the wifi wasn’t. 



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