Sunday, February 02, 2025

Southern Californians abroad: Central London State of Mind.

 Vacation continued, still in Soho:

We toured Carnaby Street, marveling that it’s still able to trade on its name 56 years after London’s swinging creaked to a standstill. All the modern big names are there, even though Lady Jane and Biba are long gone. We didn’t buy anything. But at least it wasn’t closed.

A stoe window, red and white striped awning at the top, tea and coffee items behind glass and chain link fence style shutter. Red door to the right hand side.
The Coffee Store

My old not-very-happy hunting ground, Patisserie Valerie, is gone now, but the tea and coffee store a few doors down is still there. I couldn’t see any of the thick, embossed tea bricks that so excited my imagination in those days, but  you can get them on Amazon now. No need to visit the inscrutable orient, or for that matter Soho. 

We did eat pastries from Soho – I had a Mont Blanc, which is not, as I thought, a type of pen – from a patisserie nearby. Or it may have been a boulangerie. In standard Soho fashion, all three square meters of the patisserie were packed so we were sent upstairs where twenty to thirty people shrank to fit themselves around five small tables in an area no larger than my bedroom. At intervals, waiters and waitresses would appear at the top of the stairs and attempt to give random pastries to punters, who would point fingers at each other and shout out who needed what. (Each newcomer learned who had ordered which pastry from the previous round of groans and finger pointing.) It was like an Alice in Wonderland tea party, but the cakes were heavenly.

Yellow and black storefront. Sign reads "third man records"
Third Man Records, London
Fender Triplecaster guitar on stand and a pedalboard
Fender Triplecaster on Third Man stage

Pedal Board on Third Man Stage

A small stage set up in basement with a guitar, pedal board, drum set, yellow, white and black Christmas tree, and a tv-shaped thing
Third Man Stage in basement

A yellow and white refrigerator shaped and sized object standing against a blue wall. It has a coin insert slot and a delivery slot. The writing on the white upper part reads "literarium"
Literarium, Third Man Records, London

Also on the menu, so to speak, were Third Man Records, Jack White’s record store, and the Sir John Soane’s Museum, a must-see. It’s been expanded since I was last there. Like the zoological-taxidermy addiction of Walter Rothschild, previous post, the architectural-stone jones of John Soane was quite insatiable and the museum, which is really just a London townhouse, holds so much carved and worked stone that it must be constructed of Tardis-material with steel foundations reaching below the Tube layer.

Talking of giant stone monuments, we also (after a couple of false starts) figured out how to queue for the British Museum. This *is* a place I visited many times while I lived in London, but seeing it again was wonderful. We spent a lot of time on the Elgin Marbles. (I’d never paid any attention to them before as my parents took one of their dislikes to them.) I then spent 90% of the remainder of the time in the Egyptian Rooms, a type of pilgrimage for me.

Below: Pictures of items from the British Museum Egyptian Collection

upper part (head and shoulders) of mummy case

A collection of mummy cases standing upright in a display case

Egyptian painting of a farmer bringing his cattle to show his lord. Upper part: farmer kneeling and kissing a foot. Lower part, farmer bowing before lord. A second man is standing among the cattle.

A scene of farmers bring flocks of birds and caged birds to be counted by a scribe for their lord

A pool or pond stylized as a rectangle surrounded by trees drawn as if flat on the ground. The pond contains stylized fish and swimming birds.

Schoolchildren surround a giant granite scarab (beetle) on a plinth.


The British Museum, unlike most I’ve visited in recent years, has not dumbed down for schoolchildren and I’m pretty sure the schoolchildren don’t mind that. (There were a lot of them around, all engrossed.) There are thousands, perhaps tens of thousands, of items on display, with cards giving basic details and there was a complete lack of “activities,” broken machines that show videos, broken machines that show how things were made or used, or crayons, coloring books, sandboxes or play bricks.

It would take days to properly explore the museum, but we didn't have days. We did have fun.

Vacation to be continued...

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