Wednesday, March 05, 2025

Bioscience Ethics at 50: Asilomar and the beginning of genetic engineering

In 1973 the Gordon Conference on Nucleic Acids took place at New Hampton, Hampshire, where advances in recombinant DNA technology were discussed. The scientists had concerns about the ramifications of the new technology. Was there a possibility of harmful organisms escaping the laboratory?

One researcher, Paul Berg (who went on to a very distinguished career and died only recently) was working with SV40, a cancer-producing simian virus (as an aside, SV40 had been accidentally injected into many polio vaccine recipients in the 1950-1960s).  Berg pioneered using restriction enzymes to cut DNA loops and then using other enzymes to rejoin them, creating new combinations of genetic material. Others at the same time were working on similar “recombinant” technology.

Here’s a video of Berg discussing his work and his belief that a “moratorium” of this technology should be called. Partial transcript of the video:

The point was that we were going to be propagating SV40 genes in E. coli. The concern was that E. coli is a natural inhabitant in humans, and the worry was whether we could inadvertently infect humans with the E. coli we were propagating, potentially leading to cancer. This concern sparked intense debate. Depending on where you stood on the issue, you were either vociferous about it or dismissive, saying, "Forget about it. It's not serious."

After many conversations, I became convinced that I could not dismiss the risk and make it zero likelihood. So, I decided to put the whole thing on the shelf, and for a while, the issue died down.

About a year later, Janet Mertz, a graduate student in my lab, discovered that EcoRI made cohesive ends. She found that she could take any two DNAs and join them together. This breakthrough allowed Stan Cohen and Herb Boyer to begin making recombinants using E. coli plasmids, checking for drug resistance, and showing they could create chimeric DNA molecules.

They presented their work at a Gordon Conference, which sparked a similar reaction among a small minority of the audience. Some expressed alarm, saying, "Oh my God, you guys could really make some dangerous things." At that conference, Maxine Singer and Dieter Soll, the co-chairs, were persuaded to draft a letter to the academy, published in Science. The letter highlighted the great promise of being able to create new kinds of DNA molecules while also addressing the possible dangers and risks.

When the president of the academy received the letter, he asked, "What do I do with it?" Maxine suggested, "Call Paul Berg, because he's thought about this problem."


The papers presented at the 1973 Gordon Conference alarmed the proto-molecular biologist conferees, who voted to send a letter to Philip Handler, President of the National Academy of Sciences, about the possible consequences of the new technology. The letter read:

Guidelines for DNA Hybrid Molecules

Those in attendance at the 1973 Gordon Conference on Nucleic Acids voted to send the following letter to Philip Handler, president of the National Academy of Sciences, and to John R. Hogness, president of the National Institute of Medicine. A majority also desired to publicize the letter more widely.

We are writing to you, on behalf of a number of scientists, to communicate a matter of deep concern. Several of the reports presented at this year's Gordon Research Conference on Nucleic Acids (June 11—15, 1973, New Hampton. New Hampshire) indicated that we presently have the technical ability to join together, covalently, DNA molecules from diverse sources. Scientific developments over the past two years make it both reasonable and convenient to generate overlapping sequence homologies at the termini of different DNA molecules. The sequence homologies can then be used to combine the molecules by Watson-Crick hydrogen bonding. Application of existing methods permits subsequent covalent linkage of such molecules. This technique could be used, for example, to combine DNA from animal viruses with bacterial DNA, or DNA's of different viral origin might be joined. In this way new kinds of hybrid plasmids or viruses, with biological activity of unpredictable nature, may eventually be created. These experiments offer exciting and interesting potential both for advancing knowledge of fundamental biological processes and for alleviation of human health problems.

Certain such hybrid molecules may prove hazardous to laboratory workers and to the public. Although no hazard has yet been established, prudence suggests that the potential hazard be seriously considered. A majority of those attending the Conference voted to communicate their concern in this matter to you and to the President of the Institute of Medicine (to whom this letter is also being sent). The conferees suggested that the Academies establish a study committee to consider this problem and to recommend specific actions or guidelines, should that seem appropriate. Related problems such as the risks involved in current large-scale preparation of animal viruses might also be considered.

(signed) MAXINE SINGER  DIETER SOLL

From this initial burst of activity, scientists reached a consensus that the as-yet unnamed science of Genetic Engineering should be put under a moratorium. Experiments were to cease until the ramifications could be discussed and amelioration put into place.

The conference meeting was held at Asilomar, in Southern California, in February 1975. The outcome was a set of guidelines for handling recombinant DNA, physically (biological containment facilities) and experimentally (using only hosts that would die outside a laboratory). 

That was 50 years ago.

I wasn’t a “Genetic Engineer” in those days. I’m old, but not that old. I learned about the conference in 1979, as I studied genetics for my degree. 

The burgeoning field of genetics had a vertical take off between the first “restriction enzymes” in the early seventies and the routine gene engineering of the 21st Century. In fact, the modern understanding of heredity is less than two hundred years old: The understanding that for all sexually reproducing species – plant or animal - two parents provide heritable material to an embryo, which can then pass down half its own heritable material to its offspring.

A brief timeline:

1. Mendel's experiments showing that various plant characteristics were not “blends” of their parents’ characteristics: 1865

2. The concept of evolution set down in writing by Darwin. The Origin of Species, 1859, The Descent of Man published on February 24, 1871

3. Mendel’s experiments verified (and rediscovered) by Hugo de Vries, Carl Erich Correns and von Seysenegg, 1900

4. Proof of DNA's role in heredity:  The Hershey-Chase experiment, which demonstrated that DNA, not protein, was the genetic material, 1952

5. Discovery of DNA structure: The double helix structure of DNA was identified by James Watson and Francis Crick in mid-March 1953, with their paper published on April 25, 1953

6. Experiments showing DNA replication: The Meselson-Stahl experiment providing experimental proof of DNA's semiconservative replication: 1958

7. The first paper describing a restriction enzyme published by Hamilton O. Smith, Thomas Kelly, and Kent Wilcox. The isolation and characterization of the type II restriction enzyme Hind II from Haemophilus influenzae: 1970

8. The Human Genome Project:

• Started in 1990

• Declared complete on April 14, 2003 (covering about 92% of the genome)

• "Complete genome" level achieved in May 2021

• Final gapless assembly finished in January 2022

Recombinant technology has moved on at a tremendous rate since the seventies. Several other conferences have been held, including this year at the "Spirit of Asilomar and the Future of Biotechnology" conference in February 2025, and work continues.

The Asilomar conference marked the first significant time that researchers stopped and thought, “Just because I can, it doesn’t mean I should.” Scientific Ethics have been in the news again and again after 1975 and there are very good reasons for that.

Another thing that has been in the news over the past few years, as well: the possibility of “lab leaks.”

What did people in 1974 know about lab leaks?

“This [genetic manipulation] would call for technical re-education of the average microbial geneticist or molecular biologist, whose manipulation of bacteria chills the blood of anyone accustomed to handling pathogens.” (Emphasis mine.)

Thank you, Professor E. S. Anderson of Colindale. [Nature (250(5464), 278–280. doi:10.1038/250278b0]

For background, reading, please see Paul Berg's video and/or my earlier posts on Asilomar,

https://peromyscus.blogspot.com/2013/06/genetics-library-project-political.html

https://peromyscus.blogspot.com/2015/03/genetic-engineering-birds-do-it-bees-do.html

Friday, February 28, 2025

Jupiter - a light in the sky


I thought a plane was coming right at me last night at dusk.  But it didn't get any nearer. 

Apparently it's Jupiter. 

NIght sky with trees and at the bottom  left and right, the top and side of two buildings
Jupiter

Night sky. Hint of trees at the bottom. White circle in the sky is Jupiter.
Starry, starry night: Jupiter

Obligatory Steve Hillage song:

Tuesday, February 25, 2025

Californians in Highgate Cemetery - Part 2

 We visit Highgate Cemetery, continued.

Graves and grave markers jumbled in greenery
Highgate Cemetery

When I first moved to London, in 1976, I and some other students took a tube to South Woodford, where we would be living in the Halls of Residence. Outside the city, a lot of the tube lines are above ground, and on this one we passed a gigantic graveyard. I'd never seen anything like it. 

"There are a lot of people in London," Ralph mused, solemnly. 

"And they're all dead," Trevor quipped, though it wasn't very funny. 

There are many more graveyards in London, but none as famous as Highgate Cemetery.

Near the entrance, and a must-visit, was the grave of Douglas Adams, writer of the Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy books, a Doctor Who writer, and the originator of Dirk Gently’s Holistic Detective Agency. Adams died young, at 49, and as with all creatives who leave us early, one can’t help wondering what he would have done next. You can see his marker a long way off, as a tradition has sprung up in the quarter century since his death. Visitors leave ballpoint and fountain pens in a receptacle placed there for them. Anyone who has, or has found, a piece of paper with the number "42" on it also leaves them at the grave. 

I left a ballpoint pen in his memory.

Gravestone with inscription reading Douglas Adams. A bucket with many, many ballpoint pens in it at the front.
Douglas Adams' grave

Also resting there is Malcolm McLaren, the producer, Sex store owner and manager/entrepreneur of the Sex Pistols.  Another man who didn’t quite make old age. As I’ve gotten older myself, some of the things I thought of as Malcolm “cashing in” – like the South African beats, or the Sex Pistols themselves – now seem more like genius moves on his part. (I could have done without “Cosh the Driver” though.)  Visitors seem to leave him pound coins. Not sure why, and I didn’t have one, but in a move that was well and truly NOT PUNK I didn’t steal any of the ones that were already there.

A black gravestone with a shield above, a headstone with a death mask in an alcove and grass in front of it. Inscription in white reads Malcolm Robert Andrew McLaren better a spectacular failure than a benign success.
Malcolm McLaren's grave. Better a spectacular failure,
than a benign success.

The big draw to Highgate Cemetery is Karl Marx.  Dr. Marx has two grave markers. One where he was initially interred, and one where he was reburied. I didn’t have a tour guide to ask, but I assume he was moved because so many people wanted to spend eternity next to him. Paul Foot and Eric Hobsbawm were nearby, along with a few international Marxists and probably others whose names weren’t familiar to me.  His older grave was decorated with a little hammer and sickle made of loose pebbles. It probably won’t last long, no doubt a gift from a visitor.

Karl Marx' grave. Looks a 
bit like Zardoz, but isn't.


Karl Marx' original, now empty, grave. Also shown, 
several feet and a pebble hammer and sickle.



Eric Hobsbawm's grave, near Uncle Karl



Paul Foot's grave, near Uncle Karl

We also visited William Kingdon Clifford, the mathematician, Michael Faraday, the Father of Electricity,  Alan Sillitoe the playwright and Patrick Caulfield’s inventive “DEAD” tombstone. There’s also a circular section called the Egyptian Mausoleum which is a true city of the dead. Walking around it is like visiting Petra or Babylon, except it’s wet and cold and the signage is in English.

Allan Sillitoe

A black gravestone and marker. The marker is in the shape of a stair descending to the right, and in each step stylized letters have been carved out spelling DEAD
Patrick Caulfield

William Kingdon Clifford

Michael Faraday

It is a very sobering place. I got the very definite message that people are dead for a lot longer than they are alive, and that time doesn’t stop for them even then. It marches on, with trees ripping apart the coffins and tumbling the gravestones, and the thick layers of moss constantly overturned by crows hunting for insects underneath. There weren’t even any conkers around for me to take as a souvenir, as I had at Pere-Lachaise and Golders Green.

This marker reads "Daniel St. John Smith, International Man of Mystery"
and he is. We couldn't find out who he was.

A view of a part of a huge, circular system of mausoleums, with ornate entrances on both sides of the path. At the bottom left is part of a stone staircase, the entrance down into the structure.
Part of the Egyptian Mausoleum

European Vacation series: 

Monday, February 24, 2025

Californians abroad: Highgate Cemetery Part 1

 European vacation continued...

We spent the rest of the time in Paris at the Pompidou Center,  touring the Surrealists exhibition. Paris is easy to get around – the Metro is wonderful – and the language presented no obstacle. (It helps that I can read French, full disclosure.) Most French people could tell we were English from about thirty yards away (especially amazing, since we haven’t lived in England for over a quarter of a century) and switched to speaking English. Evidently the era of French people pretending not to understand English is over. I wonder if leaving the Common Market/EU left them feeling more, rather than less, friendly?

We were soon back at Gare Du Nord for another round of sheep-dip-style passport lines and within hours back in London. So what did we do once we were back?

Why, go to Highgate Cemetery, of course.

Grave and marker among greenery. The marker is an angel with a broken wing on our right.
Highgate Cemetery. An angel with a broken wing

In all the years I lived in London, I never visited it. I’m rather sad about that now, as apparently it used to be a complete mess, a sort of Goth playground, after a bankruptcy in the 1960s which led to it being completely overgrown (and, I’ve heard, partially desecrated) by the 1980s, when the Friends of Highgate Cemetery took over the administration.

We paid said Friends a few quid each and went for a walk among the inhabitants.

Where Pere Lachaise was neat, well-tended and respected, Highgate is still higgledy-piggledy, cattywumpus and dripping with nonchalance. The guide pamphlet mentions that the Victorians thought nothing of trampling over graves to get to their loved one’s burial pitch and it seems the modern visitors do likewise. After a few attempts at following the paths, we did the same, navigating by headstones, walking over graves and tripping over tree roots from full-grown trees that have as little respect for the dead as any of the visitors.  Where Pere Lachaise had rows of neat mausoleums engraved with “concession à perpétuité” (a plot granted to a family in perpetuity) on the back, Highgate has hillsides with tumbled, worn rocks that were once graves.

Don’t get me wrong – the Friends have done a great job clearing up much of the forest and putting things back together but there are sections that look much like a clint limestone pavement (and the grykes are just as treacherous). 

We had a list of people that we wanted to visit, but for this post, here are a few general views showing the packing density of the resting places and the full-grown regrowth forest that lives among them.


Rows of gravestones in the ground, grave markers and trees
Highgate Cemetery 

Many tree trunks, trees growing inside and around graves
Highgate Cemetery

Grave markers at the back. In the foreground the stone "bedsteads" of the nearer graves are lying on their sides in parallel
Highgate Cemetery's "grykes"

A row of granite and stone markers, well carved and in good condition
Highgate Cemetery - one of the more tidy parts


Next: More Highgate. Karl Marx and his pals and some of our heroes are buried there.

Sunday, February 23, 2025

Progress Report 2: HOTLUAD no longer glows at dawn to presage the coming of spring

Bad news. The sun came up this morning but the House Opposite That Lights Up At Dawn to presage the coming of spring didn't glow at dawn.

On closer inspection, the broken windows have been replaced with boards. When we visited the house in 2020, the boards were behind broken windows, so they still could reflect the light, but I guess that's changed, or the glass has fallen out.

I've added a photo from February 2020 that shows the contrast with today.

What this means for spring, I do not know. But I have a bad feeling about this.

House on the hill opposite, February 23, 2025 at dawn

House on the hill opposite, February 2018 at dawn


Saturday, February 22, 2025

The House on the hill opposite That Lights Up At Dawn To Presage The Coming Of Spring: Progress Report 1

The House on the hill Opposite That Lights Up At Dawn To Presage The Coming Of Spring is, alas, invisible.

Maybe there won't be any more springs?

I didn't have much hope for HOTLUAD this year as all the windows appear to have been broken, but nature has drawn a literal and figurative veil over it. There are another couple of days when we *might* get a chance to observe the glow but :(

Tree branches and leaves on the left, mist in the middle and the top of a hedge at the bottom. (View from inside a hedged garden obscured by mist.)
The House on the Hill Opposite, Dawn, February 22nd, 2025
 (house and hill not shown)


Wednesday, February 12, 2025

European vacation: We visit Père Lachaise cemetery

European vacation continued:

To celebrate the promise and refreshed expectations of the new year, 2025 we took a trip to the Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris.  It’s the largest cemetery in the French capital, at 110 acres and 70,000 burial plots. It’s widely regarded as a place to go for a walk, rather than a place to contemplate the brevity of life’s brief candle-flame and indeed it is a fine place for a stroll. (Although it was raining and pretty darn cold.)

Mausoleums against a grey sky. Bare tree branches upper left.
Père Lachaise cemetery

One notable aspect of Père Lachaise is its neatness. Every body has a nice rectangular plot, often a little mausoleum with a roof, a window and a place for flowers and remembrances. The grass is neatly cut and the paths laid out for walkers.  Only a few areas have the tumbledown look of Highgate (of which more later) and if it weren’t for the thick beds of moss on the horizontal stone surfaces, it would look newly built.

Mausoleum against a grey sky. In the foreground a fallen stone column. Tree with green leaves on right.
Rare disarray in Père Lachaise

A wide variety of people are buried here, and the one that most Americans will recognize is Jim Morrison, the singer with 60s rock band The Doors who died heartbreakingly young.  We visited that gravesite – and so did everyone else, it seems. It’s been cordoned off with tape (perhaps to keep people from trampling nearby plots) but fans have left piles of flowers and souvenirs on the stone. Perhaps ten or fifteen people visited in the short time we attended, which you can’t say about Chopin, who is also there. (Though he also has fresh flowers.)

Grave marker surmounted by a stone angel and with a black ornate iron fence in front. Fresh flowers in foreground.
Chopin

Squat stone grave marker (photo is taken at an angle so it is tilted to the left). Bric a brac left by visitors visible all around. In front of it, a grave plot with many flowers.
Jim Morrison's grave

I was delighted to visit Champollion, a giant in Egyptology and one of the pioneers in reading and understanding Egyptian hieroglyphs. His tomb is marked by an obelisk, of course.  Oscar Wilde is there with a very fancy carved grave marker, sadly covered in Perspex to prevent people from leaving graffiti on the stone. The mathematician Fourier is buried there as well. The old bust that used to mark his grave had lost its nose and was widely believed to be a bust of Voldemort, so it was replaced with a new bronze bust not long ago.  His grave is also marked by an Egyptological flourish – a sun disk with two vulture wings. Paris was Egypt mad at the time. (Even more so than London.)  Another scientist buried there is Fresnel, an optics pioneer.

Stone edifice against a grey sky. Other mausoleums visible in background.
Oscar Wilde's marker

Different angle of stone edifice above. An angel figure, head in the center of the composition, facing right and wing stretching back to left hand side. Leg visible below the wing. Highly stylized. A block supporting the figure is slightly visible behind it.  The lower part of the stone edifice is encased in flat planes of perspex. Tree branches are seen against the sky.
Oscar Wilde's marker, three quarter view


To the left a mausoleum with a domed roof. To the right, an obelisk. Bare tree branches in the grey sky behind. Up a hill, to the right,  distant mausoleums.
Champollion's Obelisk, Père Lachaise

Fourier's grave with verdigris-green bust in a pale stone niche. Grave in the foreground
Fourier's grave with verdigris bust

Fresnel's grave and headstone

I’m not sure what Miguel Asturias did to deserve a faithful copy of a Mayan stela, but it’s certainly a beautiful sight. It seems perfectly situated, a little bit of ancient Guatemalan jungle realized in Paris.

Carved stele in Mayan style with bare tree branches in the background. At the bottom of the picture, mausoleums and other graves are visible. The coat of a visitor leaving the site is visible on the left hand side.
Mayan stele at Pere Lachaise

There is also a crematorium onsite with thousands of pigeonholes in a structure known as a columbarium. After a long search, we found Max Ernst’s final resting place. I guess he didn’t want a grave and a mausoleum, or indeed any fuss.  Hi Max, anyway.  

Black plate saying Max Ernst 1891 to 1976 in gold letters on black background. Another black name plate visible below it. Plates surrounded by white concrete.
Max Ernst, in the columbarium

I picked up a conker (horse chestnut) from the grounds and I’ve put it with my conker from Golder’s Green Crematorium, which I took with me when I went to visit Marc Bolan and Paul Kossoff, many years ago.

Next: Continuing our quest to celebrate the possibilities of the brand new year, we visit Highgate Cemetery in London!

European Vacation series:

M62 Memories: A Southern Californian’s Christmas in Yorkshire

After Christmas in England, peacocks in Tring

Moving on: Southern Californians brave London's Mean Streets

England Vacation - St. Anne's and sub-street shenanigans

Southern Californians abroad: Central London State of Mind

Californian's vacation: Stairs and sights in Paris

European vacation: We visit Père Lachaise cemetery

Californians abroad: Highgate Cemetery Part 1

Californians in Highgate Cemetery - Part 2

Monday, February 03, 2025

Californian's vacation: Stairs and sights in Paris

Vacation continued: 

One of the highlights of London is how easy it is to get out if and go to Paris instead.  You hop on a train at St. Pancras Station, and it deposits you at the Gare du Nord in Paris.

Well, I say “hop” but due to Brexit, you do have to go through a partially-assed passport control and customs check which is a little like being a sheep herded through a sheep dip, but once that’s over you sit on the train and munch half-French British Rail-style sandwiches and try not to think about the weight of water above you in the tunnel under the English Channel (or as the French call it, La Manche).

We stayed in an out-of-the-way hotel – a suite of rooms for around $100 a night – and utilized the French equivalent of an Oyster Card, a Navigo pass.  Same deal as the Oyster Card, you fill it up at a machine and rub it against ticket  turnstiles when you want to travel.  With a London Oyster Card, you sign in and sign out at your destination. With the Navigo, you just sign in. There’s no check of where you get off the Metro. 

I found it a bit more difficult to use, in that the first time I tried, I must have waited too long to push forward, or otherwise annoyed the Transport Gods, and the green “go through” light went out. And you can’t use the card at the same gate a second time! I assume that’s their way of preventing a traveler throwing the card to an accomplice outside the gate for a second journey, but I can’t think of a reason why they need to do that.

Anyway, one of the locals, seeing me gesticulating wildly in English, let me through the gate while his own light was green. After that, things went better.

I’d never been to Paris. I’ve been across the Channel on a ferry, notably during the Royal Wedding in 1981 when I could no longer face the  overload of Union Jack bunting in London. But we only went as far as Calais, on the coast, the spiritual home of Duty-Free fags and liquor.

I think everyone has a bucket list of what they want to see in Paris, and so did we, but since we booked the trip only a few days before we traveled, we couldn’t get tickets to 95% of them. (Places like the Louvre are famously booked up months ahead, and even then are seriously overcrowded.)  

Our first trip was to the Eiffel Tower. The summit was closed, but the lower two stages were accessible by steps (or an elevator if you booked early enough, which we hadn’t). Being a Northerner, I couldn’t help measuring it up against the Blackpool Tower, but I have to say that apart from the lack of world-class ballrooms, it is impressive. We climbed the stairs to the first stage and spent an hour looking over Paris. We set out for the stairs again and I’d climbed about nine steps before declaring the second stage could look after itself and I wasn’t going a step farther. 

Eiffel Tower against a sky with visible twigs in the sky area. At the bottom, the fence that surrounds the tower with queueing tourists' heads visible.
Lining up for the Eiffel Tower

It is a very long way up and it was cold and windy but incredibly impressive in the way all Victorian cast-iron construction is.  It was built in a couple of years for a World’s Fair, with only a 20-year permit to stay up. (Obviously, that permit was extended.) The construction speed and determination of the people of that time was something else.

A square shape with structures at the four corners. It's a view of the Eiffel Tower from the ground, directly under the center
Eiffel Tower from ground level beneath it

The next item on the agenda was Montmartre. As the name suggests, it’s on a mount, so that entailed another tranche of steps. The websites explain that climbing the steps is like participating in some Film Noir or WWII drama, but cities are so crowded these days that it was more like participating in one of those religious pilgrimages where seven thousand people get trampled to death because someone stopped suddenly to tie their shoelaces.  There is a funicular (an elevator/train cross) that will take you up there, but my navigator (Hi!) led us up many flights of stairs while continually telling me the funicular was just a little further on. And so it was – the top of the funicular. Google Maps had led us to the top entrance instead of the bottom.

View of Montmartre Basilica
View of Montmartre Basilica

 Since we were already at the top, there was no use crying over it, so we explored. It’s a touristy area, of course, but the Basilica was beautiful and the restaurants around retained some of their Impressionist-era charm. 

We took the funicular down.

Montmartre from the bottom of the steps

Although we had the Metro travel-card, we walked a huge distance in Paris, six or so miles a day. Things are quite far apart (compared with London, which has its major landmarks in a tiny central area) but despite the cold they were pleasant walks. The city is well-laid out, with wide streets, reasonable traffic and dotted with architecture that extols the mightiness of the French state and the citizens’ need for proportion and beauty. The non-national buildings are in the characteristic Hausmann Style. We saw the Ramses Obelisk, in much better nick than Cleopatra’s Needle in London, the Arc de Triomphe and beautiful fountains.  Oh, and the Moulin Rouge.  One surprise was the Seine, which flows rapidly. The Thames seems to mosy along slowly, and sometimes when the tide’s coming in it seems to not flow at all, but the Seine runs like a small river coming down from a mountain. (Except much wider.) It was the sort of flow you wouldn’t want to fall into unless you’re an unusually strong swimmer.

Notre Dame had just reopened after a devastating fire gutted the interior and collapsed the roof. There are still cranes and builders’ huts around it but it’s back to its glory.  It was raining when we visited, and the Griffons were spouting water on the passers-by like something from Gotham City.

A griffon, elongated doglike carving, horizontal from stonework. A sloping church roof and decorated tower in the background
Notre Dame Griffon spouting rainwater

A Griffon (birdlike waterspout) juts horizontally from stonework. Rounded church building roof behind.
Montmartre Griffon

A griffon, in the shape of a crouching winged dragon, juts from stonework
Montmartre Griffon


Seated blue humanoid figures under the top tier of a large fountain
Fountain commemorating the Smurfs

Ramses' Obelisk

Moulin Rouge from the street


Next stop on the vacation was the famous Pere Lachaise cemetery.

European Vacation series:

M62 Memories: A Southern Californian’s Christmas in Yorkshire

After Christmas in England, peacocks in Tring

Moving on: Southern Californians brave London's Mean Streets

England Vacation - St. Anne's and sub-street shenanigans

Southern Californians abroad: Central London State of Mind

Californian's vacation: Stairs and sights in Paris

European vacation: We visit Père Lachaise cemetery

Californians abroad: Highgate Cemetery Part 1

Californians in Highgate Cemetery - Part 2

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